Requests taken!

Have a technical question you would like answered – we’ll do what we can to make it happen.

Email me and I’ll make sure it gets directed to the right person to answer.  Try and be specific.  I think one of our biggest pet peeves around here is the all to generic “here is my absolutely as vague as possible problem, what is the solution.”


4 thoughts on “Requests taken!”

  1. I read the article on the A650e transmission part 2. I was just looking for a clarification on shimming the accumulator springs and the best method to do it. I did a Transgo shift kit, but the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are still pretty soft. The 3-4 is quick and firm so it is inconsistent. Any hints or pics would be greatly appreciated.



  2. I read part 3 of your article on the A650E, and I noticed it looks like you used coins as shims for the accumulators. Could you list the coins you used and the quantity of each with their respective accumulator please? I think this would be a great help, I am about to do the same. I just bought a turbo’ed 2001 is300 and also just got a spare a650e with 80k mi I wanna try this on.

  3. Hey, I love your articles, and I’d like to thank you for posting such detailed, useful info you can’t really find anywhere else. I had several questions about the automatic transmission mods, and I don’t know if your answers will change depending on how I use my car, so I’ll be as specific as possible. Sorry if my questions sound kinda dumb, and sorry for making so many questions. My car is an ’02 with 172k on the clock. It just has some crappy bolt ons because I got them dirt cheap, but I plan on changing those when I get more money. I daily drive my car and eventually plan on doing a manual conversion at some point in the future, but I need to make sure this trans lasts me about 2 years. This transmission will never see more than 195whp or so, and it won’t see anything past 6200 rpm. The only 2 things I’ve ever noticed with my trans is that the 2-3 shift takes just a hair longer than the others which seems to be common, (this has not gotten any worse over time) and under moderate acceleration, (around 50% throttle in traffic) the car will very rarely have a problem where it wants to stay in 4th and not shift into 5th. To get it to shift, I go into manual mode and select 4 then 5. I’ve never once noticed the trans slip or have any other problems. I do do pulls and race on highways every once in a while, and occasionally, I do some runs on curvy roads. Soon, the car will start getting autocrossed and drag raced a few times a year, maybe 6 total events per year. The car will be launched at the drag racing events even though I almost never do that any other time, but I won’t be doing any burnouts. When I launch, I press the brake hard, floor it until it reaches the stall speed, and as soon as it stops rising, I let go of the brake and take off. I decided to do these because I want to do a complete transmission flush because the car has 172k on it, and the last change was done over 30k ago, so I figured since I’m gonna be taking the pan off and changing the filter, I might as well take off the valve body and shim it too lol. So my questions are:
    1. You have 650whp and run 2 coolers with a fan along with the stock cooler, but your set up certainly requires more cooling than a near stock is300. How many coolers do I need for my set up? Do I NEED the fan? Does this change if at some point, I decide to get an aftermarket radiator and get rid of the stock trans cooler?
    2. By making the shifts too firm, you said it’s possible to chirp the tires even when not driving hard. If I follow the specs you posted about your set up in part 3, does that mean that I will break traction in the rain or if I shift mid corner?
    3. You said to use the selector buttons to determine the gear we want, but is that only when we accelerate to prevent hard downshifts, or do I have to drive in manual mode at all times?
    4. You said to avoid hard downshifts, but do you mean avoid flooring it in 5th and forcing it to downshift into a low gear, or will I no longer be able to downshift with the buttons when I start using the car for autocross?
    5. Is there a way to make this thing rev match, and if there is, should I?
    6. You said you monitor your temps through the AEM Infinity and that you can also monitor it through a live data obd2 tool, but I don’t have one, and as far as I know, they are expensive, so is there another way to monitor it, and do I really need to?
    7) If the trans starts getting too hot, what is the best way to cool it down? Drive slow? Idle in park? Turn the car off?
    8) If I do the modifications you’ve listed in your articles, based on my car and the way I drive, should I expect this trans to continue not giving me issues for the next 2 years?
    9) How much fluid should I expect to use for this flush that I want to do? The way I plan to do it is disconnect the output line and have it drain into a bucket while I turn the car on and run through the gears and periodically stop to go add more fluid. Do you think it would be best practice to have someone continuously pouring fluid while I’m in the car cycling through the gears, or do you think it could potentially get overfilled and cause damage? I don’t want to run the transmission dry while doing this.

    Again, sorry for so many questions, and thank you so much for all your articles. 🙂

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