Boost your charging system with a Toyota Tundra Alternator!

The tundra 4.7L has a 130/150 Amp alternator and it ALMOST bolts right up to your 2JZ.

Simple grind down the top ear by about 5MM and she will bolt right up.

Wiring goes as follows:

The 2JZ 3 pin connector the pins are as follows:
1-L-terminal for charging light
2-IG-terminal for ignition power
3-S-terminal for Alternator sense

The Tundra 4 pin connector the pins are as follows:
So pin 1 goes to 4, pin 2 goes to 2 and pin 3 goes to 1. The pin 3 is left vacant so use silicone sealant to fill it.
S = White
IG = Yellow Or Black-Yellow
L = Yellow-Green

3 thoughts on “Boost your charging system with a Toyota Tundra Alternator!”

  1. Pretty cool, but could you tell me why this is a good idea? And also, it won’t overload something if you put a more powerful alternator on? Can you use the stock serpentine belt?

    1. Just a FYI..
      Think of your battery as a bucket that has to feed ANY source of demand (electrical draw of ANY kind) since once it’s used, it’s gone..
      Now, think of the alternator as a faucet used to fill said bucket.
      The more demand you have to that bucket, it will need a resource to re-fill the bucket in relation to demand.
      Newer vehicles are almost ALL saturated with electrical ‘this and that’, putting/pulling demand on the battery.
      So, It’s not a 1960 Chevy truck that only needs electrical draw for distributor and lights and or blower or wipers. (NOT much)
      Like 40-50amp.
      Fast forward to today, and depending on stereo/lighting we’re pushing upwards of 100amp ‘continous’ demand, and that alternator MUST keep up or it will suck the reserves from the battery because it can’t keep up re-filling it. (once it’s gone, it’s GONE)
      Now, during all this the alternator produces electrical current by spinning windings of copper inside an electro-magnet (that gets excited by the trigger wire)
      This turning of the armature (depending demand) causes drag through the electro-magnet producing current. But to turn that at say 80amps continuous might take about 8-20HP (dont’ know. Never tried it, but you wouldn’t be able to spin it by hand. I’m sure it’s on Youtube somewhere…)
      I’m sure you’ve seen vehicles driving at night with really dim/yellow head lights. Most likely a dying alternator that can’t keep up through some malfunction, because it’s not only supplying current to run the motor, but also lights/stereo/blower/wipers etc…

      SO, if you can fit/mod in a high amp alternator into your vehicle, it will keep the battery happier and alt will run cooler since it was made to supply those high demands/draws.

      BUT.. It’s not a cure-all either. If you have a POS battery you got of your mower or cousin that’s leaking all over, or corroded cables/distribution blocks, that doesn’t help either.
      When a “WET” battery says Maintenance Free, you still need to check the acid/water ratio to keep the plates cool and not over heat touching each other killing that cel. (which is a whole ‘nuther situation)
      Search Youtube for BIG 3 wiring upgrade.
      Might be about 3-5hp by helping the alternator do it’s job easier.

  2. I am about to embark on this endeavor. Can you tell me precisely how much to cut off, and by means of what tool? How do you keep the alum chips out of the alternator? Does the oe belt still fit

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